Huanchaco at first sight
January 8, 2013
Tunca had found this hostel from the internet and we were pleasantly surprised how wonderful it was: 2 floored private rooms were large, super clean and beautifully decorated with bamboos and straw. The rooms had also a private terrace facing the ocean. Our first impression of Huanchaco quickly changed also thanks to the great hospitality of Anna who welcomed us warmly to Casa Amelia.
A Good Morning in Huanchaco
January 9, 2013
The sound of the waves at night were so powerful that 6 in the morning when we were awakened by loud gun shots coupled with distant church bells, I couldn't help but thinking that this was a Tsunami evacuation alarm. Then I learned with relief that in Peru the gun shots were fired in the wee hours to celebrate an occasion. This very loud celebration lasted until the whole Huanchaco -including Kaya and Tunca- was out and about.
While walking to the mercado -the market where you buy vegetables, fresh fruits, eggs, bread, etc- for breakfast, Alaz and I were so excited to see the pelicans for the first time in our lives. They were also very hungry. We left them with their breakfast and run to get ours.
And what can be better than enjoying ourselves on the sand by the ocean in mid January.
I've been devouring like a giant since I came to Peru. Street food, restaurant food, grocery food, market food, bus station food, bus food whatever comes my way, I eat with voracious appetite. There's already a joke among us that when I go back to Erbil, my husband will see me coming out of the airplane and will run away from me as I would have turned into a Gargantua like creature. "Aydin don't run away from me. Let me hug youuu!!!" Kabooom Kabooom Kabooom.
But I have not yet been stuffed with Cebiche. And today is the day. Vamos...
- Catching the fish
These reed water crafts are used by the Peruvian fishermen for the past 3,000 years. Yes. Three thousand years.They are called Caballito de Totora (little reed horses). The name is not the original name as horses were not introduced to South America until after the Spanish arrived in the 15th Century. (info from Wikipedia.) And Huanchaco is especially famous for them.
There is currently a debate in the surfing world as to whether or not these constitute the first form of surfing. I think they were. Check this trailer out of a documentary that tells the story.
- The making of Caballito de Totoras
Imagine randomly peeking inside through an open door on the way to the market and noticing an elderly lady executing a tradition that comes from thousands of years ago. This is Peru for you; traveling in time is already happening here ladies and gentlemen.
- the restaurant
Huanchaco is full of great fish restaurant along the seaside. And all of them offer Cebiche (raw fish marinated in lime juice and is served with habenero chiles, sweet potatoes, corn and lettuce.)
We entered to a restaurant that seemed most lively.
First; delicious Chicha Morado - a sweet Peruvian drink made of purple corn with pineapple, cinnamon, clove and sugar.
then some great music...
and then; Cebiche de Pescado. Oh my God! Kabooom. Kabooom. Kabooom
Chan Chan
January 8, 2013
We've arrived to Trujillo around 10 at night and quickly took a cab to Huanchaco about 12 km outside Trujillo. Our girls Kaya and Alaz were great during the trip and we are so proud of them. We reserved our place at Huanchaco to be near to the ocean and Luis knew many people there.
We will use this fishing village as a base to explore the ruins of the surrounding area but Huanchaco looked deserted and a bit desperate at first sight. After a long journey, our first impression of Huanchaco disappointed us but we didn't really utter a word not to demoralize each-other.
We unloaded our luggages at Casa Amelia : 2 big suitcases, 1 big backpack, 1 stroller, 1 small suitcase and 1 small backpack. We sure don't travel light.
We will use this fishing village as a base to explore the ruins of the surrounding area but Huanchaco looked deserted and a bit desperate at first sight. After a long journey, our first impression of Huanchaco disappointed us but we didn't really utter a word not to demoralize each-other.
We unloaded our luggages at Casa Amelia : 2 big suitcases, 1 big backpack, 1 stroller, 1 small suitcase and 1 small backpack. We sure don't travel light.
Tunca had found this hostel from the internet and we were pleasantly surprised how wonderful it was: 2 floored private rooms were large, super clean and beautifully decorated with bamboos and straw. The rooms had also a private terrace facing the ocean. Our first impression of Huanchaco quickly changed also thanks to the great hospitality of Anna who welcomed us warmly to Casa Amelia.
"I feel so high, I even touch the sky
Above the falling rain I feel so good in my neighbourhood, so Here I come again.
I got to have Kaya now. Kaya. Kaya."
Sleep tight everybody.
Sleep tight everybody.
January 9, 2013
The sound of the waves at night were so powerful that 6 in the morning when we were awakened by loud gun shots coupled with distant church bells, I couldn't help but thinking that this was a Tsunami evacuation alarm. Then I learned with relief that in Peru the gun shots were fired in the wee hours to celebrate an occasion. This very loud celebration lasted until the whole Huanchaco -including Kaya and Tunca- was out and about.
While walking to the mercado -the market where you buy vegetables, fresh fruits, eggs, bread, etc- for breakfast, Alaz and I were so excited to see the pelicans for the first time in our lives. They were also very hungry. We left them with their breakfast and run to get ours.
 |
| the uncle who prepared our huevos prepares fish breakfast for the next customer |
And what can be better than enjoying ourselves on the sand by the ocean in mid January.
Cebiche
January 10, 2013
I have to make a confession:
I've been devouring like a giant since I came to Peru. Street food, restaurant food, grocery food, market food, bus station food, bus food whatever comes my way, I eat with voracious appetite. There's already a joke among us that when I go back to Erbil, my husband will see me coming out of the airplane and will run away from me as I would have turned into a Gargantua like creature. "Aydin don't run away from me. Let me hug youuu!!!" Kabooom Kabooom Kabooom.
But I have not yet been stuffed with Cebiche. And today is the day. Vamos...
- Catching the fish
These reed water crafts are used by the Peruvian fishermen for the past 3,000 years. Yes. Three thousand years.They are called Caballito de Totora (little reed horses). The name is not the original name as horses were not introduced to South America until after the Spanish arrived in the 15th Century. (info from Wikipedia.) And Huanchaco is especially famous for them.
There is currently a debate in the surfing world as to whether or not these constitute the first form of surfing. I think they were. Check this trailer out of a documentary that tells the story.
- The making of Caballito de Totoras
Imagine randomly peeking inside through an open door on the way to the market and noticing an elderly lady executing a tradition that comes from thousands of years ago. This is Peru for you; traveling in time is already happening here ladies and gentlemen.
- the restaurant
Huanchaco is full of great fish restaurant along the seaside. And all of them offer Cebiche (raw fish marinated in lime juice and is served with habenero chiles, sweet potatoes, corn and lettuce.)
We entered to a restaurant that seemed most lively.
First; delicious Chicha Morado - a sweet Peruvian drink made of purple corn with pineapple, cinnamon, clove and sugar.
then some great music...
and then; Cebiche de Pescado. Oh my God! Kabooom. Kabooom. Kabooom
Chan Chan
January 12, 2013
Finally we're on our expedition trip to Chan Chan -the largest Pre/Columbian city in South America and largest adobe city in the world-. Chan Chan was built by Chimor which grew out of the remnants of Moche Civilization around AD 850. It lasted until its conquest by the Inca Empire in AD 1470.
As soon as Alaz sees an archaic wall she asks us about the story of Chan Chan:
" Long long time ago, there was a big city here with palaces, ceremonial places and houses. Many many people lived and worked here. But you know in this big city there were no stairs. Only ramps.
There was once a powerful king who ruled this city.
While people were living happily, some other people from the mountains came down to this city and took by force all there talented craftsmen and brought them to their their own city, Couzco. These people were called Inkas. After the craftsmen left, the city started to lose its power but its palaces and houses were still full of precious metals like gold and silver. Where are they know? Other men, this time from across the ocean from far far away came to Chan Chan. These men were called Spaniards. They built companies here that extracted gold and silver from these beautiful objects. So most of that beautiful objects and architecture is lost today and we're left only with what we see know. Also heavy storms and rain destroyed most of the city."
Alaz said "Shhhh!!! Enough. Skeletons are sleeping. You will wake them up. Skeletons sleep during the day and wake up at night." This information on Chan Chan was more than enough for Alaz who had started to get cranky because of the hot weather. Meanwhile Kaya also had started crying. We had to find a shade and take a break.
Alaz bored of her history class wants to go back to her favorite game: Pretending to be a baby. After she saw Kaya being taken care of so comfortably, her need to play this game grew exponentially.
Alaz took this picture of me with the Moche King who inspired me as the first character of a documentary that I would like to film in Peru. This king who lost power long time ago, with perfect English, told me that his son just got back to Dallas from Afghanistan serving for the US Army. And I asked him " And you're working here." "Yes" he said "I'm very happy working here. It's a good job"
Hectic morning
It was a hectic hectic morning. We looked in vain for a car rental place in all of Trujillo. And it was definitely not an easy thing to do with a 4 months old baby and 4 years old rebel. Our plans to go to our next stop - Chiclayo- is cancelled until tomorrow. And we will have to take the bus again. Even though various advertisements say otherwise, please note that as of January 2013 there's no car rental place in Trujillo and make your plans accordingly.
Here is a glimpse at the main square Trujillo while we were busy running around. Unfortunately it was only a glimpse. As the children were extremely cranky, we went back to Huanchaco without having the chance to explore the city. We also couldn't visit Sun and Moon temple because of the heat. But we knew we had to compromise while we travel with the kids. And there's always the next time.
Another sort of bad news is also that we have to leave Casa Amelia as our reservation was till today and there are no vacancy. Luis found a hostel with an available room around the corner. But it is much more pricy than Casa Amelia and its energy is not so good.
When we got back to Huanchaco, Luis' friend invited us to a birthday party. So we're in a good mood again. It was one of the best birthday parties we ever been to. Children and grown-ups, we all had fun together. It's not in this video but Gangham style is big in Peru too.
Finally we're on our expedition trip to Chan Chan -the largest Pre/Columbian city in South America and largest adobe city in the world-. Chan Chan was built by Chimor which grew out of the remnants of Moche Civilization around AD 850. It lasted until its conquest by the Inca Empire in AD 1470.
We took a cab to Chan Chan (15 minutes away from Huanchaco) and the cab's horn got stuck driving on the dirt road. So we travelled all the way to Chan Chan beeping.
As soon as Alaz sees an archaic wall she asks us about the story of Chan Chan:
" Long long time ago, there was a big city here with palaces, ceremonial places and houses. Many many people lived and worked here. But you know in this big city there were no stairs. Only ramps.
There was once a powerful king who ruled this city.
He was very rich and had many jewelry. He wore a big and heavy golden crown in the shape of the sun. Why? Because it was believed that his ancestors were coming from the sun. He had special powers and he could connect to the other worlds to get messages to guide his people. Religious ceremonies were very important for Moche and Chimu people. During ceremonies, the king and his aids would drink the liquid of a sacred plant called Wuachuma and then could regulate the forces of evil and good in the name of his city and his people.
 |
| the waves of the ocean |
 |
| the fish that depicts the low and high tides of the season |
 |
| A pixalated sea creature |
While people were living happily, some other people from the mountains came down to this city and took by force all there talented craftsmen and brought them to their their own city, Couzco. These people were called Inkas. After the craftsmen left, the city started to lose its power but its palaces and houses were still full of precious metals like gold and silver. Where are they know? Other men, this time from across the ocean from far far away came to Chan Chan. These men were called Spaniards. They built companies here that extracted gold and silver from these beautiful objects. So most of that beautiful objects and architecture is lost today and we're left only with what we see know. Also heavy storms and rain destroyed most of the city." |
| Who says that a 4 months old can't travel long distances. Kaya is already a great traveler and companion. |
"I am also a baby. Whaaaa."
Alaz took this picture of me with the Moche King who inspired me as the first character of a documentary that I would like to film in Peru. This king who lost power long time ago, with perfect English, told me that his son just got back to Dallas from Afghanistan serving for the US Army. And I asked him " And you're working here." "Yes" he said "I'm very happy working here. It's a good job"
At the museum, we were happy and proud to find out that we do have a Moche in the family. As we say in Turkey "Yuru be Luis!"
 |
| Museo de Sitio de Chan Chan |
Hectic morning
January 14, 2013
It was a hectic hectic morning. We looked in vain for a car rental place in all of Trujillo. And it was definitely not an easy thing to do with a 4 months old baby and 4 years old rebel. Our plans to go to our next stop - Chiclayo- is cancelled until tomorrow. And we will have to take the bus again. Even though various advertisements say otherwise, please note that as of January 2013 there's no car rental place in Trujillo and make your plans accordingly.
Here is a glimpse at the main square Trujillo while we were busy running around. Unfortunately it was only a glimpse. As the children were extremely cranky, we went back to Huanchaco without having the chance to explore the city. We also couldn't visit Sun and Moon temple because of the heat. But we knew we had to compromise while we travel with the kids. And there's always the next time.
Another sort of bad news is also that we have to leave Casa Amelia as our reservation was till today and there are no vacancy. Luis found a hostel with an available room around the corner. But it is much more pricy than Casa Amelia and its energy is not so good.
When we got back to Huanchaco, Luis' friend invited us to a birthday party. So we're in a good mood again. It was one of the best birthday parties we ever been to. Children and grown-ups, we all had fun together. It's not in this video but Gangham style is big in Peru too.
After the birthday party, we visited the waves of Huanchaco and the caballito de totoras at the sunset for the last time. Knowing that humans contemplated the same beautiful instant for thousands of years make everything much more intense and we feel much more connected to the earth.
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