3rd Stop Chiclayo

Getting sick and getting on the bus again

January 15,201

I have to first tell you about our last day in Huanchaco: Huanchaco Gardens  the hostel that we had to stay after Casa Amelia was not very clean, the rooms were gloomy and worse of all, Alaz and I got the diarrhea. I don't want to wrongly accuse the hostel but it probably was because of its pool and not the food. Alaz had still full energy and wanted to swim in the pool and continue eating as before. It was challenging to convince her that she should only eat bread, boiled potatoes and drink black tea. As I am not as strong as her, I had no energy at all and the cramps were strong.



Even though it was hard to gather myself and set on the road again, I wanted to get out of the hostel as soon as possible. Luis got us some herbal remedy from the mercado and medication from the pharmacy and thank God I started feeling better. Even though it was risky to get on the bus at such delicate condition, we decided to continue our trip as I felt like to stay at that place would make us worse. We all look worried at the bus station but Kaya is my inspiration of resistance! 







Chiclayo and restaurant Mi Tia
January 16, 2013

Yes, we did survive the 4 hours bus ride to Chiclayo with no accidents. And we already feel much better. Chiclayo is the fourth largest city in Peru with a population of around 650,000 people. After Huanchaco's relaxed atmosphere we're back to the crowded city life. We stay at Hostal Hikari conveniently located one block away from the main square. The rooms are a bit claustrophobic but at least the hostel is very clean and well managed. The town itself look poor on tourist attractions but we're mainly here to visit the city's surrounding archaeological sites and coastal villages.  

Also, we've finally rented our car but the traffic in Chiclayo is straight out of  hell. There are no rules no respect no common sense but constant distress, agitation and noise.

Luis is originally from Chiclayo, he knows his way around the city very well. The first night he took us to a great neighborhood restaurant called Mi Tia. I can't believe I did not take the picture of its wonderful owner and the super friendly waiter who served us. It's probably because Alaz and I are back to our Kaboom like state of eating and our eyes can't see anything but delicious food: 

A Chiclayo specialty: Arroz con pato a la chiclayana. 

Duck and Rice cooked in cilantro and beer. 

Pilot and her Co-pilot
January 17, 2013

If you can't change the world, change yourself. Adopting this wisdom to our journey, we also committed a traffic crime as Alaz discovered the front seat and the joy of being the co-pilot of the world's best pilot. We're on our way to Monsefu 15km south of Chiclayo -a village well known for its handicrafts. 

Co pilot: "The traffic is smooth so there's nothing to be afraid of pilot."

The uncle who sold us great hand made slippers.

Kaya a bit suprized of our shopping spree.

This lady has been making and selling these candies since
 she was 15 years old

A great mother and the greatest meal of all.

Another simple yet a wonderful picanteria (local restaurant)

A great museum, Moche pyramids and I lost my iPhone.
January 18, 2013

So far, wherever I've been in Peru, I feel like I can spend weeks if not months to be able to better absorb its energy. I think my first visit to Peru will be a summary of what would define a much longer trip in the future. 

Today we've visited Tucume, a fascinating museum and the pyramids around it. Museum of Royal Tombs of Sipan holds one of Peru's most spectacular exhibits, the tomb of the Lord of Sipán, discovered in 1987 ranks as one of the most important archaeological discoveries in Peru of the past 50 years. Sipan was a Moche royal warrior priest buried more than 1,700 years ago. His undisturbed tomb was full of wealth of ceremonial ornaments and treasures that provided key clues to Moche culture. The museum exhibits all the original pieces -each carefully cleaned and restored to the smallest detail. It was forbidden to bring a camera or a phone inside so we couldn't take any pictures. But you can visit this website to see some of these amazing finds. 

After the museum, we went to visit some of the 30 pyramids that surround the area. One of the best things about Northern Peru is that there's hardly any tourist around and you can let yourself immersed with the past with no interruption. Alaz Tunca and Kaya stayed in the car as the weather was extremely hot and we walked to the pyramids with Luis. 

There was something so magical about the vibes of the pyramids with some big birds flying over as if protecting them from the present. Just when I was about the hear the sound of Moche ceremonies,  Luis' phone rang. Alaz had to go to the toilet for the number 2 and she was refusing to go with Tunca. So we had to run to go back to the car. When you travel with children some of your best trips get cut off with everyday reality. And thats OK.

I had filmed our walk to the pyramids but unfortunately I lost my iPhone somewhere after that visit. You can watch this youtube video (in spanish) instead of our wonderful walk.

Villagers still live by the pyramids, with the pyramids.

everyone should hug a pyramid

I may have forgotten my iPhone either inside the bathroom with the panic to get to Alaz on time or at this point where Tunca took a picture of me with a smaller decaying adobe pyramid. I was so happy and excited to hug the pyramid that my iPhone may have slipped out of my pocket. And when we returned back, it was no longer there. We interpreted this mysterious lost as a Moche sign.  

we never touched suck silky sand before

Its first time that we parked a car next to a pyramid

A dreamy town-Puerto Eten
January 19, 2013

This friendly lady on the left whom we asked directions the other day had suggested us to visit Puerto Eten. And thanks to her we came to this magical town that allowed us once again to move between different points in time: 









Let's first take the train to Puerto Eten. The year is 1800s.

Once an important commercial center, Puerto Eten's train station run from 1800s till mid 80's until people couldn't afford its fare. Its once prosperous face   is now decaying but this fishing village still carries a noble dignity. Don't get deceived by travel books' 2 lines of passionless description of Puerto Eten. If you want to experience an unusual South American vibe, you shouldn't miss the  opportunity to let this village's ghostly energy grab you.

and my first and last Facebook entry of the trip:

For us mothers, being on a road trip in remote Northern towns of Peru with a 4 years and 4 months old is not always fun. But it seems to be the best way to learn more about them and about ourselves. Thank you Kaya and Alaz. You girls rock! 

4th Stop Paita