Crossing the Sechura Desert
January 19, 2013
Today we're on our way to Piura. 3,5 hours drive from Chiclayo. We're a bit nervous about crossing several hours of Sechura Desert's vast emptiness with a baby and a kid in the car. We have full gas, extra water, things to eat, and I'm trying not to think about some worse case scenarios that could happen driving this isolated land that is constantly being washed with waves of windy heat.
Don't get deceived by the isolated look of the photograph, once you enter Piura the traffic gets mad again. We're staying at Paita the main port town which is 50km west of Piura. (Paita is where the Spaniards landed first in Peru.)
There are no signs to direct us towards Paita and when we ask the directions the short answer we get from the Piurans are mosty "frente" which doesn't help much. After an hour spent at Piura's hectic traffic, we're on our way to Paita's Hostal Miramar where we've reserved our place. Thankfully the road to Paita is quite and we take a little break.
Another magical moment hits us when we step into Hostal Miramar after the sunset. This huge colonial building stands right at the waterfront and its energy carries some pleasantly mysterious feelings. We are all very excited to stay at its massive room with 6 beds next to each-other.
Sleepers in Paita
January 20, 2013
the beauty of the far and the freedom of not knowing
meet in each other's depths silently
for the soul that reveals itself in simplicity
life is now and now is forever
and thus the sleepers in Paita share a wisdom
Hey what's that sound?
January 20, 2013
One of the negative side of Hostal Miramar is that during the weekends the nights tend to get very noisy with music blasting out of the motor cars and for the light sleepers I don't recommend the room that is right above the town square. Thank God I had my earplugs but this morning despite the earplugs, we woke up to the sounds of loud trumpets and drums as a street parade passed under our balcony. I quickly ran downstairs to take some snap shots. Alaz saw a brass band for the first time and she loved them. In Piura region, there's a great diversity of instruments and genres, from ceremonial music, secular songs, dances and music for popular theater. The most popular genre in Piura is the tondero usually performed by a brass band (banda). If you want to know more about Piura's Traditional Music check this CD out.
January 20, 2013
One of the negative side of Hostal Miramar is that during the weekends the nights tend to get very noisy with music blasting out of the motor cars and for the light sleepers I don't recommend the room that is right above the town square. Thank God I had my earplugs but this morning despite the earplugs, we woke up to the sounds of loud trumpets and drums as a street parade passed under our balcony. I quickly ran downstairs to take some snap shots. Alaz saw a brass band for the first time and she loved them. In Piura region, there's a great diversity of instruments and genres, from ceremonial music, secular songs, dances and music for popular theater. The most popular genre in Piura is the tondero usually performed by a brass band (banda). If you want to know more about Piura's Traditional Music check this CD out.
All the roads in Paita leads to Hostal Marimar
January 20, 2013
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| This photo is taken by Alaz, What a great point of view. |
Hey Cocos
A Small Boat trip in wonderful Paita
January 20, 2013
Catacaos- The crafts capital of the region-
January 20, 2013
It took us about an hour to come to Catacaos from Paita. Again, we got delayed inside Piura following the "frente" directions. If we knew the directions, it would probably take 30 minutes. Etymologically, the word Catacaos derives from the Moche "CATAC" (grain) and"CAOS" (exuberant): this area was populated by the Tallan, who probably hailed from Central America (Mayas or Aztecs), who after settling the area under their leaders Mecnau and later Nariwalac, organized to form the Tallan nation (originally Tacllan after the use of the taclla, a farming tool). Their god was Walac, in whose honor they built an enormous sanctuary that is at present in the process of restoration (Templo Narihuala). Some time later, they were invaded by the Mochica and the Chimu. During colonial times, Catacaos was an "Encomienda de Indios" (Indian slave settlement), receiving the name of "San Juan de Catacaos". During the struggle for Peruvian independence, many contingents of soldiers were recruited here for the liberation army. Catacaos' textiles are prized in the country and abroad for their fine texture and long fibers. This town built its economy on its industry and railroad, on locust-wood furniture and fine straw hats, and on its gold and silver filigree work. (information from enjoyperu.com )
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The Peruvian Hairless Dog is a breed of dog with its origins in Peruvian pre-Inca cultures.
Catacaos is also famous for the quality of its food and its picanterias (local restaurants) that are frequented both by the locals and all seasoned travelers to these beautiful and sunny lands.
Among its most famous dishes are: of course "cebiche", - the fish can be mero, cabrilla or cachema accompanied by a good "trama" (this can be camote, yuca or zarandaja), "Malarrabia" (a dish based on steamed and boiled banana accompanied by cheese and olives), "Seco de Chabelo", this being cooked, mashed bananas with pemmican (jerky) and dressing, and obviously, the famous "Chicha de Jora", a spirit fermented from a variety of frijole bean, and prepared with age-old recipes, including sealing the jora in clay pots after boiling it, then burying them in the warm sands of Catacos for the required fermentation time. It is drunk in pitchers, locally called "potos" or "cojuditos". The picanterias usually have a white flag in their doorway. When the flag is at half-mast it means that the chicha is still fermenting, and when it is at full mast, the spirit is at its strongest. (information from enjoyperu.com )
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